November 29, 2008
A very detailed tutorial about bleeding the servo integral ABS brakes. It should work on all R 1150 and R 1200 bikes.
– brake overheats during extensive heavy braking (like going fast on twisties or on the race track)
– brake levers feel spongy
– brake loses power
– brake fluid too old (recomended change every 1 year, to be on the safe side)
– riding for prolonged periods of time in rain or wet environement, like in UK (brake fluid absorbs 2% moisture per year through hoses/brake reservoir; when it reaches 8%, it will overheat)
– problems with old o-rings or brake lines
Image Copyright: motorcycleinfo.co.uk
November 19, 2008
This is a maintenance procedure for all oilheads. If it’s locked securely into place, it shouldn’t budge, but, from time to time, you could just check it. On the other hand, I don’t know why would anyone want another position apart from the factory standards.
November 15, 2008
I’ve found this very interesting timing adjustment tutorial. Might work on all oilheads, but I’m not sure for the moment (I’ll verify that). This might not be necesary for day to day use, unless your timing is way off, but if you plan on going to Africa or Siberia, apart from removing the catalyst, you could prepare your bike to take less than perfect gasoline without the risk of knocking.
Note: for non-USA bikes, there’s no need to disconnect the headlight.
Image Copyright: Crazy-Jokes.com
November 15, 2008
Maybe your ABS doesn’t start in the morning. Or maybe you’ve just taken a spill and the least you want now, with all the adrenalin running through the vains, is not to trust yourself in the braking of your motorbike. But it’s a quick and easy way to restore your confidence. Use this to troubleshoot rather than find the solution as the ABS not working (and flashing it’s annoying lights) may come from other problems, like an old battery or different-from-the-book ABS sensor gap.
– dashboard flashes alternatively the ABS lights when running
– wheel locks under heavy braking (try the back wheel so you don’t crash)
– when taking a spill
The ABS resetting procedure can be found here:
Image Copyright: howstuffworks.com
November 14, 2008
So you smashed another fork seal… Not a problem. Just try not to do so much wheelies or trail riding behind another motobike. Oh, and it doesn’t affect the damping as all suspension is carried out by the shock, it’s only used to lubricate. Make sure the oil doesn’t get on the brakes.
– one of the forks leak
– riding a dusty forrest road; it’s exacerbated if you’re not the first rider in the pack, but, obviously, a Bimmer is always the first ( 😀 )
– doing wheelies
– running bad tarmac roads for long periods of time
So there’s the tutorial:
Image Copyright: BMW
November 14, 2008
Since that was my original problem was this one, I seems obvious to start with it. And it’s a fairly common one for this engine
– bike stalls for no reason, either at idle or at speed, like hitting the kill switch; rear wheel still turns
– difficult starting
– no spark and no fuel pressure
– tacho might bounce
– bike generally restarts if dry and left to cool for a few hours
– bike seems to run on only one cylinder up to about 4000rpm, has hick-ups
– bike is hot, either because of traffic or very high ambient temperature
– bike is wet, either freshly cleaned by means of water hose or rain
The procedure to get you out of this mess can be found here:
Image Copyright: ebbo.org