December 5, 2008
As you’ve probably seen already, parts directly from BMW are expensive and there’s a delay between the moment when you need it and the moment when you have it. Therefore the guys at bmwsporttouring.com established a coprehensive list of alternate or original parts that will work on your bike, be it for regular maintenance or emergency repairs.
Requires a spread sheet (Excel type) viewer.
December 1, 2008
This is one of the best tutorials I’ve ever put my hands on. You see, all BMW injected bikes have a diagnostic plug. The catch is that a proper tester is about 600E. But you’re far away from civilization, far away from any BMW dealer, you don’t have the tester at hand and your bike just quit going without any warning. You still have to push it to the nearest repair shop, but, at least, you have a clue on what might be wrong with it. The solution is very simple as you’re supposed to carry a multimeter with you at all times, just in case.
I’ve already tried it on my R11. The tutorial works for all Motronic 2.1, 2.2 and mechanical injection bikes. Should also work on Motronic 2.4, but I might need your feedback on it.
November 29, 2008
A very detailed tutorial about bleeding the servo integral ABS brakes. It should work on all R 1150 and R 1200 bikes.
– brake overheats during extensive heavy braking (like going fast on twisties or on the race track)
– brake levers feel spongy
– brake loses power
– brake fluid too old (recomended change every 1 year, to be on the safe side)
– riding for prolonged periods of time in rain or wet environement, like in UK (brake fluid absorbs 2% moisture per year through hoses/brake reservoir; when it reaches 8%, it will overheat)
– problems with old o-rings or brake lines
Image Copyright: motorcycleinfo.co.uk
November 19, 2008
This is a maintenance procedure for all oilheads. If it’s locked securely into place, it shouldn’t budge, but, from time to time, you could just check it. On the other hand, I don’t know why would anyone want another position apart from the factory standards.
November 15, 2008
I’ve found this very interesting timing adjustment tutorial. Might work on all oilheads, but I’m not sure for the moment (I’ll verify that). This might not be necesary for day to day use, unless your timing is way off, but if you plan on going to Africa or Siberia, apart from removing the catalyst, you could prepare your bike to take less than perfect gasoline without the risk of knocking.
Note: for non-USA bikes, there’s no need to disconnect the headlight.
Image Copyright: Crazy-Jokes.com
November 15, 2008
Maybe your ABS doesn’t start in the morning. Or maybe you’ve just taken a spill and the least you want now, with all the adrenalin running through the vains, is not to trust yourself in the braking of your motorbike. But it’s a quick and easy way to restore your confidence. Use this to troubleshoot rather than find the solution as the ABS not working (and flashing it’s annoying lights) may come from other problems, like an old battery or different-from-the-book ABS sensor gap.
– dashboard flashes alternatively the ABS lights when running
– wheel locks under heavy braking (try the back wheel so you don’t crash)
– when taking a spill
The ABS resetting procedure can be found here:
Image Copyright: howstuffworks.com
November 14, 2008
So you smashed another fork seal… Not a problem. Just try not to do so much wheelies or trail riding behind another motobike. Oh, and it doesn’t affect the damping as all suspension is carried out by the shock, it’s only used to lubricate. Make sure the oil doesn’t get on the brakes.
– one of the forks leak
– riding a dusty forrest road; it’s exacerbated if you’re not the first rider in the pack, but, obviously, a Bimmer is always the first ( 😀 )
– doing wheelies
– running bad tarmac roads for long periods of time
So there’s the tutorial:
Image Copyright: BMW